A starter guide to coily hair types
Whether you’ve been embracing your coils for years or have just started on a natural hair journey, understanding the ins and outs of your hair is key for bouncy, healthy, thriving locks.
While all Type 4 hair is tightly coiled, being able to identify the porosity and density of each subtype will help you care for your unique coils. At first glance, Type 4 hair comes to the floor brimming with vitality – a mass of tight boils, with a spongy texture. But delve a little deeper and you’ll start to see nuances – does it feel soft and fine? Or is it rougher, coarser?
The letters in the Hair Typing system describe the size of the hair strand or the width of the curl pattern so a C subtype has a tighter curl pattern than an A across all categories.
Type 4 curl types
Type 4A hair
For this type of hair, imagine S-pattern coils, about the size of a toothbrush and densely packed and because of this pattern, doesn’t shrink as much when going from wet to dry. Type 4A hair can actually retain moisture quite well and is the softest and loosest of all the coily textures. Interestingly, most 4A hair tends to fall downwards as it grows out from the scalp instead of up and outwards (which would form a rounded shape) because of the shape of the hair cuticle. Type 4A hair isn’t one you want to straighten – it’s very prone to heat damage, frizz and breakage. The same goes for chemical treatments (hair colour, bleach).
Type 4B hair
We start to get into a zig-zag pattern with Type 4B hair – very distinctive from ringlets of previous hair subtypes. Thanks to the sharp angles of Type 4B strands, sebum (natural oils) struggle to coat the entire fiber (strand), so no surprises this can lead to parched coils which become frizzy when extra-dry. Leave-in conditioners are a godsend for Type 4B hair as your coils reflect light beautifully when hydrated and nourished.
Type 4C hair
Unapologetic and bold, Type 4C coils are springyyyyyy. The tightest curl pattern of all hair types, type 4C hair doesn’t have a defined curl pattern. The curl pattern can only really be seen when the hair is wet. One way to tell the difference between Type 4B and 4C coils is the thickness and coarseness of each strand. Type 4C is much denser and coarser than all hair types. Major characteristics of this hair type is shrinkage – we’re talking 70% or more as it dries – and fragility. Thanks to the ultra-tight curl pattern, Type 4C coils interlace easily and can form serious knots which can then lead to further breakage. Hot tip: Rich hair moisturizers or even a hair mask will ‘fill’ the pores of your cuticle layer to manage frizz, but also add shine, while lengthening strands subtly because of the way they weigh the hair down.
Caring for Type 4 coily hair
As you’ll know, frequent shampooing is not for coils. You’ll no doubt need to lengthen out your hair washing schedule to once every week (but go with what works best for you) and you can use a pre-shampoo treatment to help detangle before washing.
Heat and friction-less drying and wide-tooth combs (or fingers!) are key to preventing breakage when hair is at its most delicate (aka. wet) and protective styles like The Pineapple will protect it from tangles and frizz as you sleep.
Whether it’s wash day or not, some folks choose to follow the LOC method to keep hair moisturised – Leave-in conditioner, Oil of choice, hair Cream to lock in the layers of moisture.
Type 4 Hair might be a bit more high-maintenance than other hair types but the joy of it is that it responds beautifully to the right care and routine – especially once you identify your subtype. Start with your exact curl or coil type and eliminate or add products as you need, and how your hair feels.
Best products for Type 4 coily hair
Our MAX MOISTURE line was created specifically for those with coils, with super nourishing Cocoa Butter and Oat Extract. It currently contains a hydrating and supportive Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave-In and Hair Mask, and we’re working to add to the range.
With coils, you’ll want to avoid products with sulfates and silicones, as those ingredients can lead to over-drying or stripping of the hair (we got you, cos being products are free from both!)
